Pattern Hack : Squiffy Crossbody Bag by Mrs H in directional fabric

This is a really gentle hack, but essential if you have prints that are one direction- that is there’s nothing upside down or on it’s side, fabrics that you definitely have to use a certain way up. Here’s my video tutorial, but if you prefer photos and text, just scroll a little further down.

When it comes to making the Squiffy as it currently stands, would mean the motifs on the flap would be upside down. So here’s how to fix that- and it’s really simple!

Take your exterior pattern piece and fold* it as shown, to turn what will be the flap to the reverse of the pattern. Make where the flap starts and ends.

Draw around the main body pattern piece, but when you get to the flap area, add 1/4″ extra fabric in the space between the marks for a seam allowance.

For the flap, I marked where the grain should be straight. I figured this out by folding the pattern so the cutouts at the bottom meet to create my side fold (which you can see just to the left of the ruler). I then drew a parrell line to the fold on the flap.

Unfold the pattern and draw around the flap only onto the right side of the fabric but with the narrower end of the flap pointing down. When you get to where it will join the body, take away the pattern, get your ruler and draw a straight line across for the top of the flap – up 1/4″ from where you could draw up to around the pattern. This gives this piece a 1/4″ seam allowance too.

Cut out your pieces and then line up the flap with the body and sew together with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam open, and then fuse the interfacing on the back. You’re ready now to follow the pattern exactly as Mrs H has it!

*Of course, you could also cut the flap piece off separately instead of folding it, but if you do that, make sure you have your interfacing and foam, etc cut out first, otherwise you’ll have to tape it back together again.

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